Pilgrimage to India

Going Home
(Day 1, Oct. 22, 2008)
By Ven. Yin Chi

It had long been my wish to make a pilgrimage to the eight sacred sites in India associated with the Buddha’s life. But the karmic circumstances were never right. This year, the obstacles were overcome and I finally fulfilled my dream.
Today is the first day of our pilgrimage to India. We took an evening flight on Air India. Because of security concerns, the screening of India-bound passengers was unusually rigorous; we went through two inspections before being allowed to board. Once on board, the cabin’s worn and grimy conditions made us wonder if hygiene could be a concern in India. But the thought that we, disciples of the Buddha, were heading towards the land of his birth made us quietly excited. There was an hour’s delay before the plane finally took off. Yet we remained calm and unruffled. We put aside any agitation or worries about safety and sat still in our seats, reciting the Buddha’s name. In our hearts was the anticipation of a homecoming.
Our plane finally landed in India, where the time was two-and-a-half hours behind Hong Kong. It was late at night when we arrived. However, we were as keyed up as people making their first trip overseas. The airport was plain, yet we had a sense of comfortable familiarity, as though we were going home. We collected our luggage and left the airport without mishap. Outside, many vehicles were parked curbside and people competed with cars to make their way forward. Fortunately, our group had only 20-odd members. Helping one another with the luggage, we made our way through the disorder and boarded our coach.
We put away our luggage, took our seats and began to look around at the coach that would take us to the Buddhist sites. The vehicle was spacious and brand new, providing a contrast with what we had experienced before boarding it.
It was around midnight when we got to our hotel. The building, resembling an outsized home, wasn’t that big, nor was its lobby spacious. But the décor was elegant enough, and the hygiene seemed adequate. Our rooms were on the upper floor. Being urbanites from Hong Kong, we were taken aback to discover the hotel had no elevator. How would we get our luggage upstairs? I pointed to the stairs and said, it’s only one flight up. We were experienced moving things around at Lo Hon Monastery. But most members of our group lacked such experience. Luckily, the hotel staff moved efficiently. By the time we had located our rooms, our luggage was already sitting outside the door, waiting for us.
So we rested outside New Delhi, on the first night of our trip. At seven o’clock the next morning, we boarded a plane for Lucknow. That was the real beginning of our pilgrimage.

An Eternal Commitment
By Ven. Foon Pun

For me, the greatest benefit from our journey to India was to be able to undertake devotions at Bodh Gaya, where the Buddha achieved enlightenment. The experience triggered my own decision to take monastic vows and seek liberation.
Master Yin Chi led us on this pilgrimage, visiting and honoring the sacred places associated with the Buddha. The first site was where the Buddha ascended to heaven to teach his late mother the Dharma. All around were desolate plains, but amid them stood a green hillock. Though the area wasn’t large, one could feel a special air of spirituality while standing on top of the hill.
It was dusk when we arrived at Jetavana Vihara. It was where the Buddha taught the Amitabha and Diamond sutras. Master Yin Chi led us in a recitation of the Heart Sutra and asked us to visualize the Buddha preaching the Dharma. For example, the inconceivable scene as described in the Amitabha Sutra, where the Buddha expounded to all beings the hard-to-believe Pure Land practice, and Sariputra and his other disciples, together with heavenly beings and asuras, happily accepted what he taught.  I felt a deep regret at not having been born in the Buddha’s time, so I could receive directly this path to liberation. In wandering between life and death, I wonder when I will be able to free myself from the cycle of rebirth. Tears washed over my face.
At Bodh Gaya, Master Yin Chi led us in making an offering of garments to the Buddha. We knelt down and chanted our homage to Shakyamuni Buddha. Then we recited: “These garments of liberation, these clothes of supreme merit. Today I put them on; never will I abandon them.”
felt shaken. In this life, I clearly understood I could take on these garments of merit, yet I had not been willing to do so. In future lifetimes, we cannot know what we will become or be confident that we can control our thoughts, much less talk about garments of merit. I thereupon resolved to set aside all mental obstacles and asked Master Yin Chi to allow me to take monastic vows.

In The Buddha’S Footsteps
By Leung Ma-ngan

When we arrived in India on the night of October 22, our local tour guide led us to our hotel so we could rest. Our group was warmly received by the hotel staff, who even welcomed us with flowers and fruit juice.  How thoughtful of them!
The next day, we flew from New Delhi to Lucknow and rode a coach for about four hours to Sravasti. According to the sutras, Sravasti was one of the sacred sites where the Buddha taught the Dharma. At Jetavana Vihara, local vendors offered flowers to visitors and many groups of monks circumambulated the monuments, chanting scriptures or mantras. Led by Master Yin Chi, we did our own circumambulation, reciting sutras and the Buddha’s name. We dedicated the merit to all beings and spoke the Four Great Vows and the Three Refuges. It was all very solemn and impressive. We must thank Master Yin Chi for her leadership.
We had a tight schedule every day during the rest of the pilgrimage. Two to three hours on the coach counted as a short journey. Often the ride was six or seven hours, and sometimes even 10 hours! Fortunately, a chef accompanied us throughout the trip. He prepared delicious vegetarian meals for us. So while the travel was arduous, at least our stomachs were pampered – for which we were extremely grateful.
On the third day, we went from Sravasti to Lumbini, the Buddha’s birthplace. Master Yin Chi led us in making reverences, chanting scripture and dedicating merit.
On October 26, we visited Vaishali. The sun was fierce that day, and we struggled to keep our eyes open. Master Yin Chi led us as we circumambulated Ashoka’s Pillar and recited the Buddha’s name. Later in the day, we toured the ruins of Nalanda University.
Our next stops were Rajgir, Bamboo Grove Monastery and Vulture Peak. On top of Vulture Peak, Master Yin Chi coordinated as we meditated briefly and chanted scriptures. As I imagined the Buddha and Bodhisattvas gathered together, I deeply wished that I would have the good fortune to join them.
Around 10 o’clock on the morning of the 29th, we visited the Vajra Seat at Bodh Gaya. Early in the morning, we gathered at the bodhi tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment. We chanted the Diamond Sutra and did circumambulations. We also performed a garments offering to the Buddha. Master Yin Chi led us in making vows to follow the Buddha’s teachings in every lifetime. Privately, I aspired to “eradicate all negative karma and forever follow the path of the Bodhisattvas.” After our morning devotions, each member of the group lit an oil lamp and dedicated merit to all beings. As the gatha says, “May this merit be transferred to all beings. May I, together with them, achieve enlightenment.”
On the morning of October 30, our group boarded boats to watch the sunrise on the River Ganga. Indians believe the river to be sacred, and that they can wash away their sins by bathing in its waters. For a moment, I had the urge to bathe there myself! On the boat, watching the sun rise, I felt like a mere speck in the universe. I was reminded that my youth had passed. Unless I practiced the Dharma diligently, I would regret it later.
November 1 was the final day of our pilgrimage. We toured the Taj Mahal, designated a World Heritage Site by the United Nations. The mausoleum was built by India’s fifth Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, in memory of his late queen, Mumtaz Mahal. Completed in 1654, the Taj has been lauded as a perfect building. Since we had arrived at such a renowned edifice, I naturally took the opportunity to take lots of pictures. While doing so, though, I was struck by the thought that while Shah Jahan was devoted and loyal, his deep emotional attachment meant he was unable to let things go and brought great suffering upon himself. After all, it’s only by letting go that we can feel free and at ease.
On November 2, with reluctant hearts, we boarded our flight home to Hong Kong, ending our 12-day journey.
I would like to thank Master Yin Chi once more for arranging this pilgrimage, as well as the care of the participants, both monastic and lay. I hope I will be able to join other pilgrimages organized by Buddhist Man Sang Hall in the future.

Gratitude For An Aspiration Fulfilled
By Wing Wah

India is the birthplace of Buddhism. It was there that the Buddha was born, grew up, became a monk, achieved enlightenment, taught the Dharma, and finally entered nirvana. During all these years as a practitioner, I have always wanted to visit the places where the Buddha did these things. As the karmic conditions ripened in November 2008, I was finally able to undertake this pilgrimage to India.
Our first stop was Dharamsala in northern India, located in the Himalayan foothills. There were blue skies and white clouds during daytime, and bright red hues at sunset. Everywhere one could see red-robed lamas in the place that is often called “Little Tibet.” A meeting was arranged with the 17th Karmapa Lama. The compassionate Karmapa was as modest and well-mannered as he was erudite. After answering questions from members of our group, he administered the Three Refuges for us in a simple ceremony. It was all very somber and dignified.
We entered Nepal on the sixth day of our journey. Our destination was Lumbini Grove, birthplace of the Buddha. Outside the memorial hall was an Ashokan Pillar. Flags fluttered in the breeze, embodying aspirations and blessings. Inside the Mahaparinirvana Temple in Kushinagar, we paid our respects to a 6.1m. statue depicting the Buddha entering nirvana. Then came Bodh Gaya, where the Buddha attained enlightenment. Pilgrims from the Chinese, Southern and Tibetan traditions gathered there. They performed a variety of practices, including Dharma ceremonies, sutra chanting, circumambulation, meditation and prostrations. The religious atmosphere was palpable.
At Deer Park in Sarnath, where the Buddha first taught the Dharma, there were the remains of a large monastery. Here the Dharma master in charge led the group in scripture chanting while circumambulating the Dharmarajika Stupa. Indians believe the River Ganga to be holy and that their sins can be purified in its waters. The river was not as polluted as one might expect. Though there were bits of floating rubbish, the water was clean in the middle of the river. Our accompanying lama was kind, and arranged for a releasing-life ceremony on the Ganga.
With time’s passage, dynastic change and human despoilment, the sacred sites of yesteryear have become today’s ruins. We can restore their original form only in our imaginations. India is a poor and populous country. Young women, besides carrying a baby in their arms, would often be accompanied by a young child as they seek alms from tourists. When they see someone giving, they would all swarm around, creating inconveniences. Seeing their condition, however, one still wants to give them something. One expedient means would be to wink at a seeker, beckoning her to follow, and then pass her a little money out of the sight of others.
I would like to thank our master in charge for initiating the pilgrimage and leading us in scripture chanting, circumambulation and meditation. Gratitude is due the lama for making appropriate arrangements at each site, and for the group to make different offerings. And we mustn’t forget our fellow practitioners who are familiar with India. They helped organize an ideal itinerary and spared no effort to assist tour members with various matters.
I had set out on this pilgrimage to India with much anticipation. I completed it with a great sense of fulfillment.

In The Footsteps Of The Buddha
By Thomas Hon Wing Polin

Our recent pilgrimage to the sacred Buddhist sites of north India was memorable and inspiring in many ways. The spiritual dimension, of course, was a primary element. One highlight naturally was Bodh Gaya, where Prince Siddhartha finally attained enlightenment and became the Buddha. The bodhi tree under which he achieved awakening must be counted the holiest, most iconic shrine for Buddhists the world over. Our collective recitation of the Diamond Sutra, sitting by the tree in the chilly pre-dawn darkness, was a unique, almost otherworldly experience. Our chanting was punctuated by the pristine strains of the Three Refuges, sung in Pali and broadcast continuously from the adjacent temple complex. The atmosphere was serene – and intensely moving for the entire group.
On a personal level, however, equally unforgettable was a visit to Jetavana Vihara in Sravasti, the first stop on our tour. After a grueling day’s journey by coach, we arrived late in the afternoon, just as the sunlight was starting to dim. The tranquility of the grounds provided a stark contrast with the bustle of rural life that passed by our coach’s windows all day long. Jetavana was where the Buddha had given some of his best-known teachings, including the Amitabha Sutra and the Diamond Sutra. As we toured the remnants of the fabled monastic community and did our circumambulations, I was suddenly able to picture in my mind much more vividly the scenes described in those familiar scriptures. That added a new, richer dimension to my appreciation of the sutras.
Also, the Amitabha Sutra has a special meaning for me. When I decided some years ago to listen to the exposition on a whole Buddhist sutra for the first time, Master Yin Chi happened to be teaching the Amitabha. I became seriously interested and never looked back. When it was time to choose a sutra for my daily recitations, the Amitabha Sutra was the one I picked.
Though the spiritual harvestings from our pilgrimage were abundant, there were more mundane revelations as well. The trip covered some of the poorest rural regions of India, where we saw people living amid a primitive squalor that is hard to imagine in a modern, urban environment like Hong Kong. Peasants toiled all day in the fields, hygiene was virtually non-existent and legions of child beggars swarmed around us wherever we went. Some of us reflected thankfully on our own good karma at being able to enjoy much better living conditions.
Yet things are not so simple. For all their poverty, the Indian peasants we saw and met always seemed to have smiles on their faces. They were notably friendly, never dour or threatening. And they seemed to be living in harmony, both among themselves and with their natural environment. Villagers carefully cultivated cow dung and pasted it by hand onto the walls of their huts to dry. The excrement is their primary source of fuel, and it comes free of charge. How eco-friendly!
Cattle, dogs, goats, pigs and even monkeys wandered freely everywhere, usually with unruffled expressions on their faces and in their eyes. The peasants worked, played, laughed, ate and slept with the animals, seeming to treat them as members of their own extended families. Such uplifting scenes can never be found in a sophisticated city. Nor, as one of our pilgrims aptly remarked, are the villagers ever troubled by crashing stock markets … 
So who has the better life – the poor Indian peasant or the affluent Hong Kong urbanite? That may depend on our definition of “better.” But in terms of overall happiness and freedom from vexations, I would bet on the villagers.
Throughout our trip, but especially at Bodh Gaya, we encountered fellow pilgrims from around the world. One element stood out: the vast majority were from Asia – Sri Lanka, Thailand, Vietnam, Japan, China, Korea, Myanmar, Tibet and India itself. Many Buddhists and non-Buddhists alike have asked why Buddhist countries seem to be poor and backward. Is there something inherent in Buddhist beliefs and values that impoverishes nations?
The answer, of course, is no. There are several key counter-arguments. One is that much more often than not, the golden age of Buddhism in a country has coincided historically with a high point in that nation’s wealth, power and prestige. Prominent examples include the Tang Dynasty in China and the Mauryan Empire of King Ashoka in India. And today, Japan, Korea and Taiwan belie the myth that societies embracing Buddhism are somehow doomed to poverty.
Above all, however, the relative backwardness of contemporary Buddhist nations is attributable to the historical cycle. The ethnic composition of the pilgrims we saw in India reminds us how much Buddhism today remains an Asian religion. And in the past two centuries, with the rise of the West and the depredations of colonialism, Asia’s wealth and influence reached a historical low point.
Yet the tide is turning. In recent decades, Asia has been on the ascendancy again. The “economic miracles” of Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong and Singapore are being followed up by the region’s two giants, China and India. In another couple of decades, Asia may well become the world’s dominant region economically. Asia’s cultural, social and ethical values will be then much more influential and admired than they are today. In another generation or so, Buddhist nations are likely to be known for their all-round wealth, not their poverty. In turn, Buddhism itself will become more influential and attractive far beyond Asia.

Dec. 2, 2008