When Lantau Island is mentioned, the Great Buddha at Po Lin Monastery often comes to mind. And when people speak of Tung Chung on Lantau, many will think of the new airport. But do you know that there is a Lo Hon Monastery, nestled in the hills above Tung Chung?
Because of its remote location, Lo Hon Monastery is not widely known. That may be about to change. In the hill at the back of the monastery is a dangerous slope, which is urgently in need of repairs. The result: a series of fund-raising activities toward that end. They have been elevating Lo Hon Monastery’s profile within the Buddhist community, as well as in society at large.
We would like to take this opportunity to introduce the monastery to the public.
Conditions for Its Construction
Before Lo Hon Monastery was built, there was a cave near the site. Master Changyuan, who came to Hong Kong from western Guangdong Province in 1926, used to practice inside the cave — which led it to be dubbed “Lo Hon Grotto,” or the Arhat’s Grotto. He farmed the land nearby and undertook austere practices.
In the mid-1960s, while on an excursion, lay practitioners Mr. Lee Yiu Ting, Mr. Poon Chi Hoi, Mr. Chow Yuk Chor and Mr. Tse Kwan Yu arrived in the vicinity. They noticed that the nearby mountains seemed to form a protective ring around the site, and marveled at the grandeur of the scenery. With its lush greenery and sparkling waters, the place seemed an ideal spot to study and practice the Dharma. So they resolved to build an edifice for those purposes. After obtaining Master Changyuan’s assent, they formed a board of directors and began the construction of Lo Hon Monastery.
Because the “Arhat’s Grotto” was located in hilly terrain, the work was difficult. Mr. Lee personally planned and supervised the work. The resulting stresses made him ill, and eventually led to his death. Despite their grief, his children and friends carried out his wishes and pressed ahead with the construction. The monastery was finished in 1974, and Master Kok Kwong was invited to be its chief abbot.
Far from the bustle of the city, Lantau Island has jagged mountain peaks. Its landscape is pristine and its soil dry. Since ancient times, monastic worthies have liked to build monasteries and retreats in such environments. The sounds of chants, and of the morning bell and the evening drum, rise and fall away, evoking a veritable Buddha’s Pure Land.
The highest mountain on the island is Lantau Peak. From a distance, one can see it pushing up toward the sky. Its left and right flanks stretch toward the sea, forming two smaller peaks. The left one is called Nei Lak Shan (Maitreya’s Peak), the right one Lion’s Peak. Lo Hon Monastery sits in their embrace, like a natural Buddha throne.
In the old days, from the red steps in front of the monastery’s Great Hall, one could see a great expanse of ocean. Mountain peaks, both near and far, were scattered like pieces on a chessboard, as if coming to pay homage to Lo Hon Monastery. Silently they stood there, like guardians of the Buddhas and Bodhisattvas. Time, however, has brought changes. The new airport, fully visible, has displaced a large part of the ocean vista. Its Arrival and Departures Hall is like some new pilgrim, quietly paying respects to the monastery.
There are two ways to get to Lo Hon Monastery. 1) From the bus terminal at Tung Chung New Town, take mini-bus No. 34 and get off at its final stop, Shek Mun Kap. From there, it is a five-minute walk to the monastery. 2) Take the ferry from Central District to Mui Wo. After disembarkation, take either bus No. 3 or No. 13 to Tung Chung. After 20-30 minutes, get off at the “Lo Hon Pavilion” stop. A 10-minute walk through pristine scenery will bring you to the monastery.
The Mountain Gate (main entrance) of Lo Hon Monastery faces Tung Chung Harbor. Its three colors — red, yellow and green — convey a certain harmonious beauty. The gate prominently displays the characters “Lo Hon Monastery,” in the calligraphy of Master Kok Kwong.
Immediately beyond the gate are a few steps, which lead to a large, natural boulder. On it is etched the characters “May Everyone Be Happy.” A cypress has been planted on each side of it, as though to welcome visitors.
The main building in the monastery complex, the Hall stands 12 meters high. It is impressive and spaciously laid out. From the slopes of Castle Peak or Tuen Mun across the water, it can be seen, glistening in the mid-levels of Lantau Peak. A pair of stone lions sit outside the Great Hall. Silently and somberly, they guard this sanctified ground.
Inside, the Hall is spacious, with large images of Sakyamuni Buddha, Maitreya Buddha and Bhaisajyaguru Buddha at its center. They inspire in those who enter an inner gladness and serenity, and an attitude of respect. To the left is Weituo Bodhisattva, resplendent in his military dress and jeweled staff. And since the bodhisattva has come East to protect the Dharma, he is wearing Chinese-style armor, looking all the more awe-inspiring. To the right of the Hall is the Guardian Bodhisattva, also impressive with his distinctive eyes, brows and beard, as well as his Green Dragon sword.
The Guanyin Hall is at the back of the Great Hall, displaying the characters “The Universal Gateway Is Revealed.” Guanyin Bodhisattva holds a willow branch and a vase with purified water. Her eyes gaze upon sentient beings with compassion. The youth Sudhana and a girl stand in attendance at her side.
This is a structure with an obvious purpose. Inside stands an image of Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva, wearing a five-Buddha crown and a monk’s robe, and holding pearls. Bodhisattva Ksitigarbha’s inconceivable powers are summed up in the saying, “His pearls illuminate the path to heaven; his golden staff shakes open the gates of hell.”
The Memorial Hall stands just below the Ksitigarbha Hall. Inside the hall are neatly arranged mini-shrines for the remains of the deceased. The colors are soft, with plenty of light. Though this is a repository for remains, there is no eerie air about it. Rather, the atmosphere is one of serenity.
Lo Hon Spring (Arhat’s Spring)
This is a natural spring within the monastery grounds. When Old Master Changyuan was practicing in the vicinity, he drank from it and made use of it. Seeping out from an opening in the rocks, the spring has maintained a constant flow over the years, neither swelling nor diminishing. Its water is cool in summer and warm in winter. It is pure and clear, and has a sweet taste.
A naturally formed cave, it is cool in summer and warm in winter. Inside it, one loses track of the seasons. Its tranquility helps visitors shed their everyday vexations. Images of the 18 Arhats stand inside the cave. Some have bent backs and protruding tummies, others are thin as a stick. All have a life-like appearance.
Folk Stories About Lo Hon Monastery
1) During his travels, Master Changyuan came to stay at Po Lin Monastery. Once, while meditating, he had a vision of a soaring, majestic rock-face. So he came here to look for it. He found it, and the cave — just as he had seen it in his meditation. He knew then that he had been guided by the Buddhas and the Bodhisattvas. So he cleared out the surrounding wilderness and began to farm the land, creating a retreat for himself to practice.
2) An old man with white hair and a long beard used to go in and out of the cave. He never had any belongings or cooking implements with him. Since Master Changyuan started using the grotto, the old man returned only once. He saw someone inside, then murmured to himself: “It’s now your turn to live here.” As soon as he had spoken, the old man turned to leave. Master Changyuan tried to detain him, so they could share the place. But by the time he reached the mouth of the cave, the old man had disappeared.
Nearly eight decades have passed since Master Changyuan established his grotto, and three since Lo Hon Monastery was completed.
Master Kok Kwong was invited to serve as the monastery’s first abbot. Its opening was marked by an elaborate inaugural ceremony. Master Kok Kwong later resigned the abbot’s position, citing his abundant work commitments. The board of directors soon invited Master Yuen Chi to be abbot and Master Chi Hang to be superintendent. They would be in charge of the monastery’s administration.
In mid-1993, Master Yuen Chi decided to emigrate to New Zealand, and a new abbot was needed. Master Chi Hang approached Master Yin Chi and asked her to take up the post. She initially turned down his offer.
While they were discussing the matter, Master Yin Chi was invited to visit Lo Hon Monastery. She did so a few days later, with her disciples. The monastery’s managing director, Ms. Lee, was waiting for them. After a tour of the grounds, Master Chi Hang again brought up the issue of succession. Ms. Lee said that if Master Yin Chi did not accept the appointment, and no other suitable candidate could be found, she would have no choice but to close the monastery. Under the circumstances, Master Yin Chi promised to reconsider.
Yet, she would say no a second time. She gave three reasons:
1) She wouldn’t be able to stay at the monastery all the time;
2) With laity in charge of the monastery’s affairs, she was concerned that the Three Treasures would not be properly respected;
3) Serving vegetarian meals had been the monastery’s main source of income — and that wasn’t her “specialty.”
Master Chi Hang responded as follows:
1) So long as there were full-time residents the monastery, she would not need to reside there;
2) Though the directors from the Lee family did not have a thorough knowledge of Buddhism, they should be able to respect the Three Treasures. They would not interfere with the administration of the monastery.
3) As for the preparation of vegetarian meals, Master Yin Chi certainly wouldn’t need to do any cooking herself. Others could do it. So long as the resolve was there, the right people would come along to help.
After conferring with her disciples, Master Yin Chi decided to accept the position. There were several reasons:
1) She did not want to see the demise of a place where the Dharma could be practiced and propagated;
2) She wished to make use of the monastery’s facilities to organize retreats and hold rituals;
3) Both the Foundation and the Chi Chai Hall were in the city. Even if they were expanded, their activities would still be confined indoors. A facility like Lo Hon Monastery would allow practitioners and visitors to experience the invigorating atmosphere of a traditional monastic retreat. The monastery would perfectly complement the urban facilities.
As a result, Master Yin Chi has served as Abbess since September 1993.
There is a fixed daily menu. The cost is HK$ 60 per adult, HK$40 per child (under 8 years of age). Additional dishes are HK$ 60 each. There is no take-away service.
Hours of service: Noon to 3 p.m.
Address: Lo Hon Monastery, Shek Mun Kap village, Tung Chung, Lantau
For reservations, please call 2808-2373
Lau Kwok Chuen, 74, is no monk, though you often see him in the monastery. He has even been dubbed the “Thousand-Armed Guanyin,” who answers every request for help. For three years, come rain or shine, he has been traveling every week to a monastery in Tung Chung to do maintenance work on a voluntary basis.
Lo Hon Monastery is located near the remote village of Shek Mun Kap in Tung Chung. About 6 a.m. on weekends, Uncle Chuen begins the journey from his home in Wong Tai Sin to Tung Chung. There, he changes transport to Shek Mun Kap, then walks 10 minutes uphill to the monastery to begin his work.
Many tasks await him. Kitchen hangars, toilet floors, door latches, railings, window gauze, plumbing, electrical fixtures — all are “fair game” to him. His “creations” can be seen throughout the monastery. When there is a lot of work, he stays around for several days; the monastery prepares a special room for his use. When the resident nuns see Uncle Chuen, they press their palms together as a gesture of respect toward the monastery’s oldest volunteer worker.
“Once, several years ago, I toured this place with a senior citizens’ group,” recalls Uncle Chuen. “I saw that the monastery was pretty run down, so I asked if they would like some help. After three years, the work still isn’t finished.” Uncle Chuen honed his skills while working as a shoe-maker and carpenter in his younger days. In retirement, he decided to continue doing what he was good at, and sought contentment in helping others.
“Uncle Chuen is really good,” says Mrs. Wong, a volunteer worker in the kitchen. “He made these hangars for chopping blocks and knives, and they’re very hardy. He is a fast worker, and a nice person as well. He’s truly a Thousand-Armed Guanyin, who responds to all calls for help.” Hearing such praise, Uncle Chuen grinned from ear to ear.
The monastery’s abbess, Master Yin Chi, also had high praise for Lau Kwok Chuen’s craftsmanship and enthusiasm. “Lo Hon Monastery is old, with many places in need of repair,” she says. “It’s not easy to find someone to do the work. Uncle Chuen knows carpentry and welding, and is a highly motivated person. Every time he comes here, he finds things to do. He has been responsible for many of the monastery’s structures.”
Besides making repairs at the monastery, Uncle Chuen participates in flag-selling activities for charity. He saves the pocket money his son gives him, and donates it all to charitable organizations. Despite his son’s protests, he insists on doing so. “To give money to those who need it is better than to fritter it away on vacations,” he says. “The ‘fruit money’ the government gives me is enough.”
Several years of volunteer activities have earned Uncle Chuen numerous awards, which he considers his greatest compensation. “To still be able to help others at my age is my good fortune,” he says. “Someone once said to me, ‘You mustn’t die anytime soon. If you do, no one will help me sharpen my knives.’” Uncle Chuen just smiled and said: “Don’t worry, I’ll be working for at least another 20 years.” That’s his philosophy of life.
— From Apple Daily, December 30, 1999